The fog that rolls in at night and still hasn't lifted by morning. The city walls disappearing after twenty metres. Bicycles appearing out of nowhere, their lights on.
That's November in Ferrara, and we love it. It's the month when the city draws in a little, and everyone looks for somewhere warm to be. But there's no shortage of November events in Ferrara: a weekend of wine glasses in the square, two great exhibitions open at the same time, the lagoons in full season and, as the month draws to a close, the first Christmas lights. Here's what we like.
A toast in the square: Calici d'Autunno
From 13 to 15 November 2026 Calici d'Autunno is back, and this year it has a new home: it moves to piazza Municipio. Three evenings of wines, tastings, music and DJ sets, right in the heart of the city.
For us, who choose our wine bottle by bottle, it's always lovely to see a square full of people tasting, asking questions, comparing. A tip: take it slowly, one glass at a time, and ask who is behind the bottle. That's often the most interesting part.
Two exhibitions, one weekend
November is the right month for museums: it's cold outside, and inside there's all the time you need. And this year Ferrara has two that are worth the trip.
- "Vanitas. Fiori e simboli, da Hayez a Casorati", at the Galleria BPER in Palazzo Barbantini-Koch, corso della Giovecca 108. More than 40 works from the 19th and early 20th centuries in which flowers speak of beauty and how briefly it lasts: Hayez, Segantini, Previati, Casorati and others. Open until 31 January 2027, on Thursdays from 14 to 19, and Friday to Sunday from 10 to 19. Full ticket 10 euros, free up to age 26.
- "Da Monet a Van Gogh a Kandinsky" at Palazzo dei Diamanti, open until 10 January 2027. We wrote here about what to see and how to plan your visit.
The two exhibitions meet at one point: Segantini and Previati are in both. Seeing them just a short walk apart, in two different palazzi, is a small treat we recommend you give yourself.
The lagoons in full season
While the city wraps itself in fog, in the Valli di Comacchio eel season is at its peak. The fishing runs from October to December, with the lavorieri, the old grid-like weirs of the lagoons. The traditional marinated eel of the Valli di Comacchio is a Presidio Slow Food.
A trip to the lagoons on a grey November morning has a beauty all its own: still water, reeds, silence. Then you head back into town, and in the evening you eat.
On the plate and in the glass
When it turns cold, Ferrara makes you crave food that warms you up. We're a fish trattoria, but we can't leave out salama da sugo IGP, Ferrara's slow-cooked pork sausage, which in this city is almost a religion: steamed for hours and served hot, with mashed potatoes. If you've never tried it, November is the month. We talk about it more here: what to eat in Ferrara.
At our place, Paolo follows what the sea and the lagoons bring, and the off-menu specials are described in person, table by table.
In the glass, 11 November is San Martino, St Martin's Day, and there's an old saying: "per San Martino ogni mosto diventa vino", by St Martin's Day every must becomes wine. We take it literally, with a bottle from winemakers we know. And with eel, the local answer is still the Fortana frizzante from Bosco Eliceo: bubbles and acidity to cut through the richness.
At the end of the month, the first Christmas lights
From Saturday 21 November the CNA Christmas Village opens in piazza Trento e Trieste, with Christmas stalls that will stay until 6 January 2027, every day from 10 to 19.30. It's the sign that the holidays are near. For everything else, see you in December.
Frequently asked questions
When is Calici d'Autunno in Ferrara in 2026?
On 13, 14 and 15 November 2026, in piazza Municipio, with wines, tastings, music and DJ sets.
When do the Christmas markets open in Ferrara?
The CNA Christmas Village in piazza Trento e Trieste opens on Saturday 21 November 2026 and stays until 6 January 2027, every day from 10 to 19.30.
Where can you see the Vanitas exhibition, and until when?
At the Galleria BPER, in Palazzo Barbantini-Koch (corso della Giovecca 108), until 31 January 2027. A full ticket costs 10 euros, and entry is free up to age 26.
If you're passing by
November is the month of long dinners, with fog outside and warmth inside. Whether you come for the wine, for the exhibitions or for an unhurried evening, the table is ready.
We look forward to seeing you. And if you already know us, you know the best thing is when you come back.